Cruise Operator: G Expedition – Spirit of Shackleton
Dates of Voyage: January 11 to January 31, 2024
No. of Passengers on Board: 123 (Maximum Capacity: 134)
Our Final Route of Travel
Impact of Bird Flu
The detection of bird flu in the South Georgia Islands forced the ship to change our itinerary, reversing our planned route out of concern that landing sites might close. Even then we were only able to land in Fortuna, Stromness and Grytviken. In Grytviken, we couldn’t visit Shackleton’s grave due to bird flu precautions.
Not going to lie, it was disappointing not to land and walk among thousands of penguins, but I understood the need for caution. Fortunately, we were still able to take the zodiac out, and the weather held up, allowing us to experience the wildlife and South Georgia from the water.
MS Expedition Overview
The MS Expedition, a converted car ferry last refurbished in 2009, felt comparable to a mid-range hotel like a Comfort Inn—it’s comfortable, but definitely not the Ritz. Not that I would know.
While the ship was very comfortable, the interior had a slightly dated feel. Don’t expect luxury amenities like balconies, spas, multiple restaurants, snack or wine bars, or video monitors in the rooms. However, since the main focus was on excursions and experiencing wildlife and scenery, these luxuries were secondary for us. That said, on the days spent at sea, it would’ve been nice to have a more comfortable lounge to relax and read in.
Staff
The expedition team, staff, and crew were exceptional. Friendly, extremely knowledgeable, and passionate about sharing this special place with the passengers. We are going to miss Jonathan’s smooth voice waking us up every morning (it’s not what you think) and the wit and banter of John, Keith, Matt and the rest of expedition crew.
Their skill in navigating the zodiacs—especially in rough weather—was crucial to ensuring everyone’s safety. Meanwhile, the ship’s staff worked tirelessly to keep passengers comfortable and meet their every need, creating a truly seamless experience.
Room #307 (Category 3 Twin, Full Windows)
The cabin was cozy and comfortable, though not extravagant. The bathroom was tiny—there was barely enough room to turn around, so larger individuals might struggle to fit. This deck plan doesn’t show it but there was a room to the right of us.
The key difference between Category 3 and Category 2 rooms, aside from price and floor level, is the size of the windows. Category 3 has full windows, while Category 2 has portholes. Would I pay extra for the full windows? Probably not. However, the Category 2 rooms seemed to get the brunt of the rough seas.
Meals
All meals were served in a single, large dining room. Breakfast and lunch were buffet-style, while dinners were sit-down, three-course meals. In addition, there was an afternoon tea with sandwiches, empanadas, cookies, etc. The food was plentiful, and there was no chance of going hungry. The kitchen even hosted theme nights, though with mixed results.
- South American Dinner Buffet featured fajitas, which is more Tex-Mex than South American. (Last time I checked Texas is still part of the U.S., y’all!)
- Asian Buffet Dinner (with dishes from China, Southeast Asia, and the Philippines) was a big hit, especially the whole roast suckling pig (Lechon Baboy). Yes a whole suckling pig. I wondered where they stored it?
- Australian Buffet Dinner was interesting, though according to the Aussies on board, nothing on the menu was distinctly Australian, except for the underbaked damper bread.
Overall, the food was very good but not gourmet, and the variety kept things interesting.
Internet Connection
Pre-paid Internet cards were available for purchase. We bought a 10MB card for $30, mostly to check on the cats, emails, and text messages. The key was logging out quickly, or else the minutes would run out. Surprisingly, the 10MB lasted us until the end of the cruise despite Gus constantly checking ESPN for score updates.
Kayaking
We signed up for kayaking but were waitlisted. At $1,500 (about the cost of a kayak itself), it seemed expensive. While kayaking in Antarctica would have been the ultimate experience, in hindsight, we were glad we didn’t join the tour. The kayakers only managed to get out on three days towards the end of the trip, and on one of those days, some opted to skip kayaking to explore Neko Harbour instead. In the end, it didn’t seem worth the price.
Laundry
Laundry services were available, with prices comparable to hotel laundry, i.e. $1.00 for underwear. You had to plan when to do laundry, as it would take 1-2 days to get your clothes back. We usually did our laundry on sea days, and to our surprise, we got our clothes back within 24 hours. In total, we did about three loads of laundry during our time there, though we improvised by washing smaller items in the sink when we could.
Disembarkation
We arrived in Ushuaia the night before disembarkation. Passengers were allowed to leave the ship that evening to explore the town and enjoy local nightlife, but everyone had to return to the ship the next morning for the official disembarkation.
Clientele
The passengers were a mix of travelers, primarily from the United States, Canada, and Australia. We were surprised by the number of Americans on board, as we actually met more Aussies and Canadians than Americans. It made me wonder—where were my fellow Americans hiding?
One of the great things about this cruise was meeting people from many different backgrounds and experiences. Although our initial plan was to meet and sit with every passenger, we ended up rotating between about 10 different groups. When you first board the ship, most people are feeling each other out, but within a week, informal groups naturally form. Before you know it, you’re sharing meals and conversations with the same group of people, creating your own clique.
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