Sunday January 21st 2024
Cooper Bay & Drygalski Fjord
South Georgia
Expedition Morning
07:15 Wake-up call
This morning, depending on wind, weather and ice conditions, we plan to zodiac explore at Cooper Bay.
Expedition Afternoon
This afternoon, depending on wind, weather and ice conditions, we may ship explore the Drygalski Fjord or zodiac explore Larson Harbour.
After Dinner Tonight our very own crew band the ‘Monkey-Eating Eagles’ will be rocking the Polar Bear Bar as we wave goodbye to South Georgia.
Things were looking up this morning. The storm from yesterday passed quickly, leaving us with calm conditions and plenty of sunshine. And things just kept getting better: Our mudroom group was the first to go, Gus snagged the primo photography spot at the zodiac’s bow (port side, no less), and John, our Marine Biologist Extraordinaire, was our driver and guide. Score!
Heading into Cooper Bay, we were hoping to spot the two most stylish penguins of the penguin universe: The flamboyant Macaroni Penguins and the dapper Chinstrap Penguins. Cooper Bay is one of the few places where you can see these two fashion icons sharing the spotlight. The Macaronis, distinguished by their colorful head tufts, got their unusual name from a British explorer who thought their feathers resembled the flashy plumage on hats worn by their version of hipsters back then. At least they weren’t named “man bun penguins”. As for the Chinstrap Penguins, they got their name from the sleek black line that runs under their chin, serving as a ready-made accessory for their natural tuxedo attire.
Finding Macaroni Penguins can be a bit of a challenge as they like to nest way up high on steep rocky cliffs among the thick tussock grass, making them hard to spot. So our best chance at seeing them would be if a few wandered down to the shore, wanting to strut their stuff.
With fingers crossed, we made our way to a rocky outcrop where hundreds of penguins were hanging out. At first, it wasn’t clear what type of penguins they were, but as we got closer, it was apparent they were indeed Macaronis. Yay! And they were everywhere – perched on the rocks, lounging on the beach, and even scaling the nearby hillsides.
The rocky outcrop served as their runway, as we were treated to a show as they preened, strutted, and gracefully entered the water. It felt like being in the front row of a high-fashion show, but with adorable penguins instead of models.
As the zodiac maneuvered through dense kelp beds and narrow inlets, our excitement grew when we spotted a lone Chinstrap standing tall, exuding confidence and appearing ready to strike a pose for our cameras.
Adding to the vibrant scene were Fur Seals frolicking in a natural swimming pool, an adult “Blondie” lounging around, a group of grumpy Elephant Seals, and a couple of Pintail Ducks.
Afterward, John took us to a beach where a colony of Chinstraps was known to hang out. We watched for a while as they sashayed up and down the beach before we returned to the ship.
On our way back, a ‘string’ of Chinstraps gave us an aquatic show as they porpoised alongside us, giving us a memorable send-off. If you’re like me and can’t get enough of seeing penguins swimming, check out the video below.
Icebergs and Glaciers
Leaving the penguins behind in Cooper Bay, the captain expertly guided the ship through a massive field of icebergs en route to Drygalski Fjord. We found ourselves surrounded by colossal ice sculptures of every imaginable shapes, textures and colors, which felt like a scene straight out of “Frozen”. Now, I can’t get the song “Let It Go” out of my head!
Drygalski Fjord, a magnificent natural wonder located at the southern tip of South Georgia, served as our last stop before leaving for Antarctica. Flanked by towering steep cliffs and glacier-carved valleys, it presented some of the most breathtaking scenery we have ever experienced. We were all wowed by the incredibly stunning landscape so much, that despite the strong chilly wind, none of us wanted to miss a single moment of it. Gus, in particular, remained outside for over an hour, freezing his butt off, trying to capture it all while waiting for the perfect picture.
We were lucky enough to explore the fjord all the way to the end, whereas last year, the ship could only go one-third of the way due to strong winds.
As we sailed away from South Georgia, we encountered the most impressive iceberg —a towering frozen monolith protruding from the ocean’s depth, resembling an icy version of the Courthouse Towers in Arches National Park.”
Compare the picture to the Courthouse Towers picture that Gus took many years ago. Totally surreal.
The day ended on a high note with a performance by The Monkey-Eating Eagles, a band made up of our talented Filipino staff. They treated us to an array of cover songs, from ballads like ‘Crazy for You’ and ‘Wherever You Will Go’ to rock like ‘Satisfaction’, ‘Sweet Home Alabama’ and ‘Zombie.’ It was loads of fun with lots energy from the crowd with some dancing to cap off an incredible day.
This marked the beginning of our journey to the Antarctic Peninsula. The two days ahead of us will be filled with lectures, reading time, and, most importantly, laundry day. And seasickness for Gus, probably, but we won’t dwell on that.
It's Opener There 
Leave a comment