Stanley: The Redcoats Are Coming

Happy MLK Day!

We were waiting for the harbor master to send a pilot by boat to guide us through the “narrows”, a pinch point at the entrance to Stanley Harbour. The pilot boat was delayed, assisting another boat, so it wasn’t until 8 am that we were finally invited to go up on deck and watch our passage through the narrows as the pilot boarded and took over the ship’s navigation.

Two massive cruise ships, each accommodating approximately 1000 passengers, patiently waited behind us to enter the harbor. We were warned that the injection of 2000 people into the small town would adversely affect our experience, leading to overcrowded gift shops and no chance of enjoying a peaceful lunch of fish and chips in the town’s two small pubs. So, when it was announced that the cruise ships could not launch the tender boats to ferry their passengers ashore, due to strong winds, a resounding cheer erupted. This, of course, was out of deep, heartfelt concern for the safety of those 2000 cruise passengers. Those tender rides can be rough.

Once docked, we soon boarded a bus toward our chosen activity for the morning. We had a choice between a hardcore uphill hike up to Tumbledown, a location famous for the British troop advancement on Stanley that ended the Falkland Islands War, and a leisurely stroll to Gypsy Cove, a natural reserve and a chance to see more penguins. Can you guess which one we chose?

The well-maintained coastal trail of Gypsy Cove took us past a gorgeous white sandy inlet, aquamarine seas, and interesting rock formations. We also passed a few penguin cribs, one of which contained a couple of adorable fluffy chicks lying inside watching cautiously while people took turns to peek in and take pictures. The rest of the hike was scenic, but very little filled with penguins. We eventually came to a point with a couple of WWII-era rusty relic gun placements, looking out of place in this serene setting.

We got the inside scoop, from the crew, on where to go for top-notch fish and chips lunch and ale with some local vibes. The Globe Tavern, rumored to be the place where Shackleton and his lieutenants brainstormed on how to rescue the rest of the crew from Elephant Island was sadly closed for lunch.

So, we headed to Victory Bar, up the street. It was a typical pub adorned with British flags, a dartboard, and a pool table. The bar was fully occupied by locals enjoying lunch in serene quiet, occasionally exchanging a word or two with the bartender while giving the red-coat interlopers (that’s us) the side-eyed. We sat at one of the tables with three of the G Adventures trip leaders – Lyn, Sarah, and Brad. Everyone (except Daisy) ordered the fish and chips and a pint of Rock Hopper, the local ale, hand-pulled and served at room temperature. Daisy asked the mute bartender what else they were serving. He carefully considered his answer and after a few moments he mumbled something unintelligible but we think “sausages”. Daisy clarified “bangers?”. He said “sure”. Daisy asked if they had mash to go with that, and after checking with the kitchen and pondering his answer, he said “yes”. So it was bangers and mash for Daisy. Back at the table, we raised our glasses to the expedition’s success so far and savored the first sips of that glorious ale. The food and the vibe? Absolutely worth it.

At the bus pickup area, there were a few Southern sea lions peacefully napping on a nearby dock. We noticed that some visitors were focused on something just below the dock entrance. Curious, we joined them and found a teeny baby sea lion just a few feet away on the rocks. It couldn’t have been more than a few days old. The mother must have left the baby there while she went foraging. We watched as the baby sea lion struggled to maneuver and took wobbly steps on the rocks, eventually crying out for mom. It was both heartbreaking and incredibly cute to hear.